Return to 421 and Discovering Moose Creek

James Myers – Nez Perce-Clearwater Trail Crew Member

Trail #421

Nez Perce Clearwater National Forest

After my internship was over last year (2018) I was fortunate enough to tag along with the trail crew for one last Wilderness adventure. Trail 421 runs along the beautiful Moose Creek I always hear so much about, but the most fascinating thing about this area are the Cedars! Massive Cedar trees with fern undergrowth and scattered rays of light shinning down, walking through feels as if you’ve been transported to another world. I was very excited to say the least when I got the news that we would be going back to spend more time with the Cedars. It took us a few days working down trail 486, but the wait is always worth it once you arrive in this forest. The Huckleberries, Thimbleberries, Blackberries (even though they aren’t native), and Serviceberries were in full swing so not only were our visual senses occupied our taste buds were enjoying themselves also! We were able to stay tucked away at a really special campsite hidden just off the trail under an amazing canopy right next to Moose Creek. This was one of the same spots we stayed at the year before. The Misquotes must having been enjoying the forest also, because they left us alone for the most part! Eventually our time came to an end once we finished all the work in the area and we continued our journey along 421.This part of 421was new to me and I began to understand how one could fall in love with Moose Creek. Moose Creek is filled with wonderful swimming holes and if one just stops to look they can see plenty of Trout swimming and rising in the water so naturally, it makes you wonder how they’ve gotten things figured out so easily? Being able to work in such amazing spaces is truly a blessing, but being able to share theses areas with an amazing team of friends really makes the Wilderness feel like a home.

Many Hands Make Light Work

Lauren Simms

Lewis & Clark College

Big Sand Lake 

July 20 - July 27

Nez Perce / Clearwater National Forest 

Being in the Wilderness can be a challenging and eye-opening experience for some people, especially when your introduction to it is starting with an eight-mile hike to Big Sand Lake. This is where we found our Sierra Club volunteers on a Sunday morning after an already exhausting journey to the Hoodoo Lake campground the day before; starting with a six hour drive from the Missoula airport (that should have taken only two hours), to lost luggage, and a forgotten driver’s license, these volunteers began this hitch with another storm coming for them. 

The volunteers found the hike in challenging, some saying it was the hardest thing they had ever done. On the bright side, they weren’t the only ones with a challenge that day. Before leaving the campground, we heard from a hiker that had just come from Blodgett Pass that the trail we were about to march on was completely clear. However, after crossing the Wilderness Boundary, we found about 50 trees down. As the volunteers clambered over fallen trees with full packs, four of us worked on clearing as much of the trail as we could. It was a glorious moment when we finally all made it to Big Sand Lake and the volunteers could seek refuge in their big bug tent.

Although the volunteers started the hitch with a couple of hiccups, morale remained high and they were excited to get their hands on the crosscuts. I was a bit nervous to teach a volunteer what I had been practicing all summer, but the volunteer that I paired up with picked up on the technique right away. We spent the day clearing trees with the other two crew members, plus interns; Emma and Henry, and the Sierra Club volunteers. Our group’s finest moment was making 5 cuts in a tree that was covering about 40 feet of trail. Everyone felt a great sense of accomplishment and pride knowing that they had achieved something larger than themselves. 

We had a great time getting to know our volunteers and teaching them how to play Euchre. We bestowed as much knowledge of trails and the Selway on them that we could, while also learning a lot from them in return. Who knew the correct pronunciation for coffee is “caw-fee”. And it was the volunteers who had to keep reminding us to stop and smell the flowers!

What a crew! Staff, WR Interns, and Sierra Club Volunteers.

This one was a whopper! But wait - there’s more………………………..

A Bridge Between Generations

Connor White – Wilderness Ranger Intern

Appalachian State University

Big Creek Bridge

July 22 – July 26th

Bitterroot National Forest

“BACKCUT”... “FALLING” then several seconds of expectant silence before the huge thud of a larch hitting the forest floor shakes the drainage. Adam and Don had picked out the tree the night before, sizing it up to see if it would make a good stringer for the bridge being rebuilt over Big Creek. After rounds of measuring, remeasuring, and contemplation over coffee, it had been decided on, and now met its fate in the early morning chill the next day.

Don, Roger, and Pat have built this bridge twice before. Once in ‘79 as part of a Forest Service Construction Crew, and then again in ‘99. This time they decided to come back as volunteers, several of them retired, to see it rebuilt into its third iteration.  Both bridges had been put into place by hand, carved carefully from local trees and hauled to the site through the use of sheer force of will and a bit of elbow grease. This time was a little different. Adam Washebek had come along and brought his rigging equipment, using a simple but effective system of pulleys to haul trees into the air and set them in place.

So you can imagine, that as an intern working their first season on a wilderness crew how humbling it was to be surrounded by so many generations of wilderness workers whose technical skills have been practiced since before I was born. I felt outclassed to say the least. But in one particularly poignant moment, Roger said something that has stuck with me through the last several days.

“You’re us from forty years ago.”

Could that really be true? I can scarcely imagine myself forty years from now, to be frank. But maybe one day I’ll make it there, and maybe I’ll be a part of the next bridge that gets constructed over Big Creek? And until then I hope we can keep our wild places wild, and continue to enjoy the rugged beauty that these mountains have to offer us.

Volunteers and Interns stand on the newly constructed bridge. From Left to Right: Don Burgess, Pat Burke, Michael Riviere, Verena Gruber, Roger Green

Putting the bridge stringer in place with rigging

Adam Washebek climbs the Larch Tree to rig it for felling

Grave Peak Lookout Restoration a success!

The following note was sent by our friend and SBFC member, Nate Raff. Nate was a volunteer on this summer’s Grave Peak restoration project. The Grave Peak lookout is just one of the structural restoration projects that SBFC was asked to work on this summer. Conner, SBFC seasonal staff, along with Kris and Emma, Wilderness Ranger Interns, participated in this memorable and historical trip. We thought we’d share Nate’s note and photos with you.

“Dear Sally,

I just wanted to drop you a note in regard to the folks from the SBFC Foundation that helped out with the Grave Peak Lookout project near Powell, ID.  Conner Adams, Kris and Emma were great to work with, a huge help with all the sherpa loads they brought up to the lookout for us, and were a key part of the successful completion of that project. On time and within budget, as they say, but actually ahead of time and I have no idea of the budget..…….. We couldn't have pulled off that project without their tremendous help.  By our count, there were 14 mule loads that got broken down into 38 backpack loads to be hauled that last mile of very steep, rough, boulderstrewn "trail" to the lookout. Everything arrived perfectly and with no damage.  Conner even volunteered to bring up an additional 17 ft. extension ladder all the way from Kooskia Meadows trailhead, a distance  of 5 miles and 3000+ ft of elevation gain. That ladder is what got the project finished early.  Attached are a few photos, one of Conner packing the ladder, and of the completed roof and floor.  

Again, thanks for their help.

Nate Raff - Grave Peak Restoration Volunteer”

Conner carrying the ladder. Five plus miles - 3,000 ft elevation gain.

New Floor!

New roofs & door.

One of the views from the lookout.

From Prairie to Peaks

Kris Mueller

Iowa State University

Wind Lakes / Grave Peak

July 10 – July 17

Nez Perce / Clearwater National Forest

Iowa summers can be much different than those here in the Selway. Hundred-degree days with so much humidity in the air one can sweat within minutes, hiking through deciduous trees on public state or county land, and fields of corn that outnumber forests by a factor of more than ten. It is unsurprising that a group of Iowa high school students (one group, sometimes two, of Iowa high school students make the journey to the CNF each summer/inspired by Connie Saylor Johnson so many years ago) and myself would want to spend time away from the Midwest in one of the largest areas of Wilderness in the lower 48.

For some of us, our first time in the Wilderness can be overwhelming at first; seeing, for miles, nothing but undeveloped and primitive forest. Where hillsides are spotted with burned areas and young lodgepole stands wait to see their time come. Where water in creeks and lakes is so clean, we can’t imagine a place like it aside from the public pool. Where even the sound of a passing plane sounds like something from a distant land.

At over 8,000 feet Grave Peak is not a walk through the prairie to ascend the peak although a sense of pride overcomes us as we finally reach the top. As Sherpas we helped carry restoration supplies to the historic lookout, no longer in use, but available for anyone to appreciate. Our sweat becoming cold as the winds got stronger climbing up the sides of the mountain and blowing over the top trying to bring us with it.

Looking down at upper Wind Lakes makes us only hope that the sun will be shining during a cold afternoon swim at camp. The next order of business at camp was to start a fire to set at bay the clouds of mosquitoes that call this area home. Though bugs may be annoying at times the mind is only temporarily distracted by discomfort. Whether while working on clearing a trail, monitoring campsites, or attempting to move large rocks out of a narrow ridge trail, we can only feel appreciation for the opportunity to serve in such a wild place.

We experienced a rather strong summer storm overnight about mid-week not too different from Iowa storms as they roll across the plains. Flashes of lightning every five seconds shortly followed by loud cracks through the mountains accompanied the whipping rain and wind against the tent fly. As for someone who has never seen an active forest fire it was exciting to hear the talk of potential fire starts on the radio the next morning.

Everyone may find a different meaning in Wilderness and some may take longer than others to find it, but one thing is for certain; we need Wilderness, but Wilderness not does not need us.

Grave Peak Lookout after a morning hike to the summit

A view of Wind Lakes from Grave Peak

The Frank-Where Wilderness Stays Wild

Briana Bienusa- Wilderness Ranger Intern

Montana State University

Marble Creek Drainage/Salmon-Challis National Forest

07/10/2019-07/17/2019

This summer has been full of breathtaking views, sore muscles, and smiles. This internship has given me perspective on not only what I wish to gain out of the wilderness, but what others seek out of it as well. I have had the opportunity to meet a lot of amazing people whose eyes sparkle when they think about the places and experiences they love most. Our trip into the Marble Creek Drainage was no exception.

We arrived at Thomas Creek airstrip via a plane referred to as the Beaver, unsure of what was ahead. Taking a plane into the forest was an amazing and surreal experience. One moment you are in civilization and the next you are carrying a crosscut through the sage brush headed towards the wilderness along the Middle Fork of the Salmon river. Rafters float by laughing as they fish and swim near their boats filled with luxuries that are unthinkable as we walk along carrying our belongings in a backpack. 

Our goal was to clear as much of the Marble Creek drainage as possible in the following week and what a goal that was. Throughout the time spent in Marble Creek, we were faced with endless creek crossings and a trail that had a tendency to disappear amongst the overgrown brush and willow tree groves. The loppers became a very close trail companion as we bush-wacked and uncovered a trail that had been hiding deep below the brush for quite some time. As we ventured further, the trail climbed up, revealing breathtaking views of the canyon walls below.  The further we went, the more this drainage proved to be the epitome of wild and reminded me that as much as we work to maintain and develop trails, the wilderness will always be one step ahead in taking them back. Having the opportunity to recreate these trails is some of the most rewarding work I have ever done and was made even better by the hardworking and positive crew I had by my side. Once I stepped off the plane in Challis, I was ready to climb back on and venture back into the wilderness.

The view out over the Frank Church as we flew back into Challis on 07/17

Marble Creek drainage is shown moving through the canyon where it later empties into the middle fork.

Our amazing volunteer Tom standing amongst some of the ‘willow tree jungle’ we were clearing.

Time in the Wilderness

Michael Riviere – Wilderness Ranger Intern

University of Montana

Bitterroot National Forest

Throughout this summer of working on trails in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness I have been paying a fair amount of attention to the time it has taken for me and the Wilderness to become acquainted. I say acquainted because these woods, rocks, and mountain ranges are constantly changing through immense amounts of natural forces.  Rain, droughts, fires, snow and ice cause trails to become rutted from water runoff, blocked by fallen trees, or worse, blocked by boulders tumbling from above.

I often remind myself to stop and look around, take in the sights (after all, I may see something I wouldn’t expect).  Time in the Wilderness is dictated by how much you are carrying. You can get work done quickly and have a short day or work slowly and have a longer day.  The enjoyment received from the job comes from clearing trails there is no doubt, but I find the purpose of working in Wilderness is because of the Wilderness. The grandeur of the landscape, knowing through time it will inevitably change, drastic or not. I do not feel as though our work is futile knowing the next year there will be just as many trees to cut, rocks to move, or even fire rings to naturalize. Futility is only a concept if you feel there is no purpose in the work you are doing. Although the trails being maintained require persistence, working alongside other like-minded people such as Connor, Verena, and Adam, reminds me constantly I’m not alone in my efforts of keeping and maintaining Wilderness character.  Even after the satisfaction wears off of bucking a large tree, the long-lasting gratification I get is knowing others are persistent in preserving natural resources for generations to come.

Right Back at Home

Abby Propsom – Moose Creek Trail Crew Member

Hitch #2  June 25th – July 3rd

Nez Perce Clearwater National Forest

This hitch, like every hitch I have had the joy of experiencing in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, both last year as an intern and this year on staff, was packed with hard work, unexpected twists and pure joy. My crew hiked in right along the Selway River all the way to Three Links Creek on Trail #4.

It was a relatively quick hike due to our good fortune of getting pack support.  Upon our arrival things got interesting.  When we unpacked the manty boxes left by our packer something was missing.  That something was my bag of food which accidentally ended up at Moose Creek with the Montana Conservation Corps immersion crew’s resupply. Not to worry, I was reunited with my Snickers bars and instant coffee the following day (thanks Joey).

Following our half marathon day to Three Links, we hiked up the 405 to Stewart Hot Springs, and it’s true what they say, it’s more of an elk wallow and a mud pit than a picturesque hot springs but still nice to soak your feet in after a long day’s work. We had a couple days filled with cut and run on the 405, trying to open as much trail as we could. We eventually made it to Three Links Meadow after getting on the 693 trail. Although we didn’t quite finish the section of the 693 that we were hoping to finish, we should get to be back in the same area next hitch, clearing up to Frisco Peak.

The views were jaw dropping, the laughter never ending, and the packs a little lighter each day. The bees and rattlesnakes were out in full force, the thimbleberries just ripening and the occasional afternoon surprise of a huckleberry bush right on the side of the trail always welcome. Another beautiful hitch in the Selway complete! Although I’m very glad for a little time off to relax, recover and shower.  I’m still counting down the days until I can go right back to the place where I feel most at home.

Bianca, Britt, Joey, Lauren and Abby leaving the Wilderness at the end of hitch.

Joey Hudek looking over the Selway.

Lessons Learned

Emma Froelich – Wilderness Ranger Intern

University of Wisconsin – Madison

June 11 – 18

Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest

As we emerged from the Wilderness, I imagined this is how Robin Williams’ character in Jumanji must have felt when his jungle-adapted self re-entered society, water from a tap? What a concept! As we drove back to civilization, my hair a greasy mess and my clothes sweaty and dirt stained, I mulled over the lessons I had learned. Hitch one was nothing short of a learning curve. Learning that oatmeal for breakfast gets old after day two. Learning that your toes will go numb and there’s nothing you can do about it. Learning that if you fall face forward with a full pack into a trenched trail you will get stuck and you will get laughed at. Wilderness seems to be one of the best teachers, very much like Robin Williams’ character in Dead Poet’s Society. Its unorthodox methods hold a different lesson for each student and, as cliché as it is, teaches one to seize the day. One week in the Selway-Bitterroot taught me that any body of water counts as a shower as long as you scrub the dirt off and that hiking up to a saddle through snow isn’t easy, but the views are definitely worth every step. It’s easy to get frustrated out there and there were times I found myself wishing for things to be easier. “If only Robin Williams’ character in Aladdin were here right now, I could wish all these trees off the trail,” I’d think to myself. But I think the most special thing about Wilderness is it’s not easy, if it were it’d be a National Park. Wilderness is a challenge not meant for everyone, but the lessons it holds are far more valuable than anything I could learn in a classroom. I know I’ve got a lot of lessons left to learn, but I’m excited to have Wilderness as my teacher.

Connor Adams, Emma Froelich, Henry Vaughn, Lauren Simms, Kristopher Mueller

Round Trip Ticket to "The Big Empty"

Sam Freestone - Moose Creek Trail Crew Member

Former SBFC IDAWA Student and SBFC Wilderness Ranger Intern

I thought about writing this blog post in a journal format. Something similar to the work of people like Pete Fromm or Richard (Dick) Proenneke who detailed the adventure (or lack thereof) of each day with a date and sometimes weather and temperature. However, as a Trail Crew Member on the trail to complete lofty goals on even loftier mountains, I’m finding nearly impossible to keep the finer details of my day in order long enough to share with you before falling asleep pen in hand. That really isn’t my style anyway. I like to get to know people by sitting down with them over a drink or two and sharing the tales which brought us to where we are now. I know this medium doesn’t exactly allow for anything quite like that, so how about I have a drink and write to you from the concrete porch of the bunkhouse I call home at Powell Ranger Station; then when you get a chance to read this you can go ahead and have your beverage of choice and do your best to imagine we're just sitting next each other.

For longtime readers of these blog posts, you may remember me from two years ago when I served as an intern, but for those that don’t here is a bit of my story. I was born and raised in a little town called Adel, Iowa where through my county conservation department I began as a parking lot wienie and slowly became acquainted with the concepts of the natural world and wildness. This was large because of a man by the name of Chris Adkins and through time I became aware of trips Chris led, taking high schoolers from my neck of the woods to the great capital “W” Wilderness of Idaho. To me the chosen few who went on that trip were elite and when I came of age I toiled for hours and hours trying to form the right words to use on my application so there would be no chance of me being passed over in favor of another. My work and worry paid off and I found myself with a round trip ticket to the big empty. The rugged country where I could curse and holler into the wind without worry of repercussion. I and ten others would go on a great adventure together as strangers and come back rugged people of the outdoors. We would all grow full beards in a week and walk with the calm saunter of a man who has spent too much time on a horse. To ease the process of our acquaintance with each other we all filled out and exchanged social elixir forms so that when our time came, we slide into that 15-passenger van without friction. During our two-day drive to across the plains, we received yet another social elixir form. This one was filled out by Connie Saylor Johnson. Her cursive accent was thick and to my teenage self who hadn’t interacted with cursive since the 3rd grade, it took time to decode. But with each sentence decrypted she became nothing less than a mystic walking the wildest part of this earth. We arrived at Lolo pass and took our touristy photo of our group at the Idaho border sign before storming the visitors center and discovering the hot chocolate which I now describe as the nectar of the gods. After piling back into the van for the last 12 miles of our journey to Powell Chris spoke of a song which he believed to be about Connie. The song, 'Yukon Sally' by Peter Mayer began to play and chatter in the van dropped to nothing as we all seemed to sense the importance of the music from Chris’ description. Still now that song gets to me. Arriving at Powell we spread our sleeping bags out on the floor of the cookhouse as Connie pulled into the compound…

Fast forward to now almost 6 years later and the part of myself that I left in the Selway is stronger than ever and continues to pull me back to place where it all started. Once this Wilderness became a part of my life there was little to no choice for me to do anything else but to try and give back to the land that held a heavy hand in my development as a person. Powell is about as close as you can live to the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness and that suits with me just fine. Anyways I’ve been rambling for a while so maybe I should go back to whittling quietly. Now that I’ve shared a bit of my Motley Crew’s long and winding road, I think it’s your turn to tell me what connects you to that big patch of dark green on the map and we can get to know each other one letter or comment at a time. Don’t be shy I look forward to hearing from you, good reading material can be scarce to come by here.

Kind Regards,

Sam