Hitch #3 - Big Sand Lake Clearing

Mike Skladanowski

Trail Crew Member

July 21-28

Nez Perce-Clearwater NF

We started this hitch where we left off just 1 week earlier, clearing trail #4 up to the beautiful Big Sand Lake. We camped there for the first two nights of our 7-night, 8-day hitch, waking up each morning to majestic peaks silhouetted by the rising sun behind them. It wasn’t long though before the sun would warm the day and the mosquitos would prod us back to work with their gentle reminders to keep moving. From Big Sand Lake we cleared trail #906, bushing back overgrown snowbrush and removing logs as we passed over two ridges to reset camp at Frog lake. Those first three days came with daily rain, wind and thunder, always keeping us on our toes and reaching into our packs to take our rain layers on and off. 

From Frog Lake we walked over Frog Peak, gracing us with beautiful views into Big Flat Creek drainage and as far as Blodgett Peak. We continued to log out trail #906 to the abandoned Hidden Peak lookout tower, where we had lunch with yet another stunning mountain view. From the lookout tower down into the Hidden Lake drainage encroaching Lodgepole Pines and their fallen parents became rampant on trail #10 as we moved onward toward Hidden Lake. Forward progress slowed down as the trail became more and more dense with brush and fallen trees from a recent burn. We spent our 5th and 6th night at an old horse camp just off of trail #10 a few hundred yards after the junction of #10 and #9. 

As our time dwindled, we realized that clearing our entire loop was going to be impossible. We pushed forward to our next and final camp along trail #1 where the trail meets Big Sand Creek. After 3 unbearably hot and sunny days we were grateful to be able to swim in a cool pool in the creek near our camp. On our final day, we cleared and brushed what we could as we headed for the Bridge Creek trailhead.  The temptation of cold beverages and hot food pushed us forward the final few miles.

Hitch #3 - Devil’s Washbasin, Trail #19

Phoebe Mather

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

July 21-28

Bitterroot National Forest/Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness

Devil’s Washbasin, Trail #19

Hitch #3 wasn’t any ordinary hitch, unlike previous trips where our main goal is to clear the trail, the purpose of this hitch was the Devil’s Washbasin Blasting Project. Trail #19 is an existing trail in the Bitterroot National Forest, however, once over the first ridge it is a treacherous descent over slickrock back down into the valley. The task at hand? To blast the slickrock on the existing trail, then put in check steps and clean up remaining rocks to make it safer for stock to pass through.

The Forest Service has had this project planned for a while, and my Wilderness Fellow partner, Madi, and I were lucky enough to take part in the process as this is the last year explosives will be allowed to be used in Wilderness areas. There was the blasting crew lead by Karl Crittenden, along with Chris Murphy and Dave Maclay Schulte, all of whom are with the USFS. Then there was the trail crew, led by Jack Ader the Wilderness Ranger of the West Fork for the USFS, and then Madi and I. This hitch was truly dedicated to the packers, mules, and horses. All of the work we completed along the trail was to ensure safe travel for future excursions, though we did encounter a few surprises along the way.

The first 2 days we cleared down-trees and intrusive rocks to Arrow Creek, about 6 miles in from the trailhead. This is where we would meet the mules and set up camp. Madi and I cherished the luxury of having a pack supported trip. We only had to pack a day-pack each day for the 8 days of hitch, everything else was brought in for us. I even splurged and packed a big ol’ jar of Nutella. Wilderness glamping.

The blasting took place about 4-7 times daily. I must admit, it was a little nerve-wracking to know that we were carrying 40-60lbs of explosives on our back, up hill, for a mile. However, these modern explosives are incredibly safe if transported and used correctly, and there was not a moment on this hitch that I didn’t feel unsafe. Rocks were flying, and the echo from each blast traveled from the rock bowl we were working in all the way down into the valley and each drainage along the way. I thought the noise would end at the mountains in the distance, but the echo would just bounce off the walls and make its way back to us.

The lupine, indian paintbrush, and many butterflies and bumblebees were vibrant and lively throughout the trail, though the dust and mosquitos were also prevalent. The dust caked our hands, arms, and even up our pant legs, while we had squashed mosquitoes along our hairlines from wearing a protective helmet all day. The highlight of everyday was getting back to the ankle-deep creek at camp and either trying to lay down and roll around in all the water this small drainage had to offer, or to stand in the deepest part and fill up our empty nalgene bottles for a refreshing shower/scrub down.

Madi and I headed out further down the trail every evening before dinner time, heading to the base of the distant mountains, or turning onto the Goat Ridge Junction. We ate well, enjoyed the company of new friends, worked incredibly hard, blew up some bedrock, and were present for everything the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness had to offer. Bugs and all.

Hitch #2 Dolph Creek, East Moose Clearing

Pete Chappell

Nez Perce-Clearwater Trail Crew Leader

July 7-15

Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest

We started off Hitch #2 with a good ol' fashioned 13 hour workday, clearing trees and lugging our feather-light 70-pound packs to a beautiful Cedar Grove where we wearily set our camp up next to a raging East Moose Creek. Eager as we were at that moment to fall into a deep slumber, our immediate concern was to assemble a proper bear hang. However, the forest had other plans, and we spent a far too great and embarrassing sum of time throwing ropes tied to rocks at trees all in the name of keeping our food safe from the hungry bears. At last, we succeeded in our endeavor, finally crawling into our tents and drifting off to the sound of the creek tirelessly flowing by.

In the morning we were graciously awakened by the incredibly pleasant whine of mosquitoes in their ever-present quest to fly directly into our ears and eyes and drink our blood. And as our workday started, we were very quickly reminded that we were indeed back in the wilderness, by the soothing bite of the majestic horsefly on our backs and heads, as if to say, "You smell good and are not in any way covered in sweat and dirt and grime".

Our work propelled us through a dense cedar forest, with trees towering above us and trunks so wide they rivaled the great redwoods. We encountered two massive cedar trees that had fallen directly within the length of our trail. With tree trunks larger than the entire length of our five and a half foot crosscut saw. We saw no way of cutting through it and saving the existing trail. A trail re-route appeared to be in our future, so we dutifully went to work, building a brand new section of trail around the fallen giants. 

The next few days we pushed tirelessly forward, the sounds of our axes ringing across the canyon walls and our crosscut continually singing through fallen trees. We were set upon by increasing numbers of downed trees as we worked through hail, rain, blisters, and blazing heat. 

In some sections we lost the trail entirely, spending far too many minutes frustratingly poking around in the brush to find it. It was in these sections that we spotted a hungry mountain goat far off in the distance, balancing precariously on small footholds in the cliffside, a towering waterfall dropping off a cliff, spilling its contents into the East fork of Moose Creek, and the biggest bear scat I personally have ever seen. I'm glad the bears are getting their fill of other food apart from ours.

But alas, all good times come to an end and we had to leave our little East Moose Trail project for greener pastures. And by this, I of course mean a grueling 14-mile hike back to the end of our road, Elk Summit, where we had stashed our cars (and a bag of barbecue chips). Our trip had come to an end, but rest assured, the itch of hundreds of mosquito bites we had acquired in our 8 days here were just starting to begin.

But despite the aches and pains. Despite the rain, hail, and heat, the mosquitoes and horseflies, and blisters. The truth is, all of those things pale to the fact that I am lucky enough to have the opportunity to be out here, experiencing these things, taking in the scenery, swimming in the cold glacial water, and maintaining trails so that others may use them and experience these same things. If it means having the privilege to be out here, I would gladly experience all those aches and pains again.

Hitch #1 Beaver Creek

Carly Stinson

Wilderness Steward

June 23-July 1

Salmon-Challis NF

We worked up from the Beaver Creek trailhead through a large burn from 2012. We primarily focused on logout although we also cleared many drains along the way. Over the first three unseasonably warm days of our hitch we cleared trail #21 to the junction with trail #22. There were still large patches of snow on the North side of the saddle. We then cleared trail #22 along the ridge and down to the junction with trail #14. The trail is very out sloped here with long sections of side hilling.

Along trail #14 we encountered two jackstraws left by avalanches. We were able to clear these and down the trail to within a mile of the junction with the Fall Creek trail #20. Despite a couple days of late June snow we cleared many logs including 799 small trees.  

Ruffneck View -At9407’ the Lookout on Ruffneck Peak provides views of Ruffneck Lake and Island Lake, with the Sawtooths and Whitecouds in the distance.

Ruffneck View -At

9407’ the Lookout on Ruffneck Peak provides views of Ruffneck Lake and Island Lake, with the Sawtooths and Whitecouds in the distance.

Avalanche_Debris: Large avalanches deposited piles of trees in the trail slowing our progress towards Fall Creek.

Avalanche_Debris: Large avalanches deposited piles of trees in the trail slowing our progress towards Fall Creek.

Avalanche_Cleared: Wilderness Steward Justine Bright stands in the freshly cleared trail.

Avalanche_Cleared: Wilderness Steward Justine Bright stands in the freshly cleared trail.

Ascent to Joy!

Madison Murrill - Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Hitch #1 - Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

June 23-30

Bitterroot National Forest

The lowest howl was answered by a chorus of yips and calls. On the first day of our first hitch in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, a pack of wolves added enchantment to the already dramatic landscape. 

Sharp granite cliffs rose on the northern side of the trail, while to the south rock formations that defied all reason peppered the seven-mile hike to our camp spot. These features seemed unreal as we followed the creek, sometimes a cascade and at other times just a solid mass of water, the rushing of which often drowned out all other sound.

It was when we moved away from the creek that Phoebe (SBFC Wilderness Fellow), Wilderness Ranger Jack Ader of the Bitterroot NF, and myself heard the wolves. We had been lumbering along, each quietly regretting that extra item we brought that surely made our packs so heavy. Amazement and silence found us as the one wolf called out, and then suddenly many voices were resounding off the canyon walls. 

When we arrived, Phoebe and I were eager to begin the task we'd set out for. Jack Ader walked us through the process of inventorying and naturalizing several backcountry sites. It was an interesting and new concept for the two of us, and we were trying not to think about the mess of trees we'd passed on the way to camp. The process of documenting sites turned out to be the primary task for our first hitch.

The remainder of our time was spent tackling a pile-up of large trees in an area we fondly named "The Swamp". We also dug water bars and addressed some water damage along the trail while enjoying a few more performances by the local wolf pack. Although we were sad to leave the mosquitoes and mystique, the next portion of our hitch proved just as rewarding. As Wilderness Ranger Fellows, we became more efficient at campsite monitoring and clearing trail. We sat in awe on the shore of a nearby lake and marveled as an ominous sky slated to unleash snow gave way to a clear sunrise and beautiful day. 

Our first hitch was challenging, rewarding, and left us excited for the hitches to come. The Bitterroot has shown us just a sliver of its grandeur, and in the next several weeks we hope to experience much more. 

From Subway to Solitude

Six youth volunteers with the Catrock Youth Academy in the Bronx, accompanied by adult leaders Megan Robertson and Nicholas Radulescu, spent 6 days with SBFC in the Bitterroot National Forest at Big Creek clearing trail and coming to understand the meaning and importance of Wilderness.

Megan Robertson, group leader and creator of this wonderful video, currently lives and works in New York City as a data scientist, but she loves spending her free time outdoors camping, backpacking and hiking. She has been volunteering with New York City Inspiring Connections Outdoors (NYC ICO) and CatRock Ventures for over a year. She is the new volunteer coordinator and a certified leader who plans trips for various age groups. She started volunteering with the organization because she wanted to help youth discover the benefits of spending time outdoors and pass along her knowledge of outdoor skills.

Megan has generously shared her video with us so that we can share it with you. Please click on the youtube video link below.

If you’d like more information about the CatRock program please go to: http://catrockventures.org/

Artists in Residence fall in love with Fish Lake

Hi, we are Jonathan Marquis and Erin DiGiovanni. We were so thrilled to be selected by OpenAIR, The Selway Wilderness Bitterroot Foundation, and the United States Forest Service to be artists-in-residence and cabin volunteers at Fish Lake Guard Station over the summer. We met as graduate students studying fine art at The University of Arizona and came north to stay at Fish Lake for two weeks. By the end of it, though, neither of us wanted to leave.

The OpenAIR artist-in-residence program, in its inaugural year, is based in Missoula and works with strategic community partners to place artists in various locations throughout Western Montana, and in this case, Idaho. The application process was rigorous, and we were fortunate to be chosen. Many of the other OpenAIR residency locations were in communities with facilities, art studios, and access to supplies. Our journey as artists-in-residence was different. We went into the heart of one of the largest wilderness areas in the lower forty-eight with limited equipment.

It all began on a sunny mid-July day, after one final look-through of our supplies and gear. We split up, and each made our way to the guard station independently. Jonathan and most of the supplies were flown to Fish Lake’s airstrip (one of the three public landing strips in the wilderness area) by the Recreational Aviation Foundation. The flight into Fish Lake was unforgettable, and watching the plane leave while standing alone with a pile of gear in the middle of nowhere was surreal.

Erin’s journey began at the Gateway of the Wilderness trailhead, and she hiked to the cabin with her two dogs, Mica and Buddy, in one single push. This was Erin’s longest single-day solo hike into the backcountry with a full backpack, as well as, her longest stay in the wilderness. 

Making art in a faraway wilderness area is tricky. The limited amount of supplies that had to fit in a small, fixed-wing aircraft, along with all of the basic necessities of survival, required us to maintain flexibility with what we could make. Drawing seemed manageable, but inside the cabin was surprisingly dark – we had to wear our headlamps in the middle of the day just to see our paper. Outside, the cabin was mosquito central. So, any kind of plein air was a practice in patience and radical mosquito kinship. The amenities found in-town were also absent. Our days were filled with lots of work, hauling water, chopping firewood, and food preparation. These tasks revealed a texture or rhythm to daily life that isn’t always obvious in urban areas.

Working among these conditions highlighted how the art studio back home is a pristine artmaking environment. Out here, we had to work hard, negotiate with the cabin and landscape, plan for the unexpected, and respond to a range of variable conditions. At first, this was a challenge, but by the end of our stay we felt connected and embedded in the landscape in a way that few experiences can generate.

The wilderness art residency forced us to be extra creative. For example, the dark cabin became a darkroom for the cyanotypes that Jonathan produced. A cyanotype – the same process as blueprints – uses the sun to expose an image onto light-sensitive paper. In the cabin-turned-darkroom, we were able to prep and handle the cyanotype paper before completing the exposure outside.

The cyanotype process lends itself well to the exposure of objects placed directly onto the surface of the paper, a technique called a photogram. The objects in the cabin felt significant like they were entangled with the land and a sense of local history, especially the large saws that were used to maintain the area, trails, and fell the trees. The same trees that were likely used to build the cabin. There were so many wildflowers growing around the cabin too.  Jonathan combined the saws and flowers on cyanotypes to suggest the elegance, ruggedness, and fragility of wilderness.

Erin focused on drawing quiet moments of introspection through the miscellaneous objects found around the cabin. Commonplace items provoked questions of origin and value. How many hands have touched this broomstick? What was the journey like for those who packed in the wood-burning stove? Without immediate access to conveniences and commodities, ubiquitous things heightened in perceived value. An inexpensive lawn chair quickly becomes coveted for its slightly more comfortable demeanor than that of the sturdy wooden bench. 

The graphite drawings Erin completed at the cabin were then altered in her studio after returning to Tucson, AZ. She added vibrant layers of color and texture through the processes of screen printing and painting. The quiet and intimate drawings were altered by the bright and saturated visuals she experienced after returning to the city.

Together we also produced a collaborative artwork called The Monitor because one of our jobs was to monitor the flights that arrived at Fish Lake. The title is also a reference to the computer monitor that in a wilderness cabin is replaced by looking out an actual window! The Monitor was on display over the summer at an OpenAIR exhibition in Missoula, and other works of ours made at Fish Lake were on display at The University of Montana Gallery of Visual Arts in September.

Looking back, there were so many memorable moments, it was like one long continuous string of them. In the cold early mornings, we would often light a fire, read, draw and make breakfast, or sit on the porch soaking up the morning light when it was too cold for the mosquitoes to bite. We went on a lot of hikes, swam in the lake, we foraged for mushrooms, caught fish, and cooked from the land in a way that felt deeply meaningful and nourishing. We both cannot wait to do it again!

The quiet spaciousness at Fish Lake Guard Station.

The quiet spaciousness at Fish Lake Guard Station.

Making art in the middle of the day. We had to use headlamps because the indoor lighting was so dim.

Making art in the middle of the day. We had to use headlamps because the indoor lighting was so dim.

It was a bumper crop of wildflowers.

It was a bumper crop of wildflowers.

Jonathan exposing a cyanotype using a cot as a support.

Jonathan exposing a cyanotype using a cot as a support.

The Gardener by Jonathan Marquis, 51”X96”, cyanotype on paper, 2019.

The Gardener by Jonathan Marquis, 51”X96”, cyanotype on paper, 2019.

Lawn Chair by Erin DiGiovanni, 9”X12”, graphite, 2019.

Lawn Chair by Erin DiGiovanni, 9”X12”, graphite, 2019.

On top of Eagle Mountain.

On top of Eagle Mountain.

Out last day at the cabin.  We can’t wait to come back!

Out last day at the cabin. We can’t wait to come back!

Take Only Pictures - Leave Only Footprints

Connor Adams

Nez Perce-Clearwater Powell Lead Wilderness Steward

Final Season Hitch - Weir Creek and Jerry Johnson Hot Springs

It has been a long time since I first learned the rudiments of the outdoor ethic that is commonly referred to as Leave No Trace. As a kid exploring the woods of coastal Maine and the mountains of the Adirondacks, I remember frequently hearing the phrase, from my parents, from other hikers, and from society at large, “take only pictures, leave only footprints”.  That became the basis of my own personal code of behavior once I grew up and started venturing further and further into our public lands. That motto is a good start for a responsible way to recreate in the outdoors, but the folks at the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics will tell you that it’s only the beginning.

For my final hitch with SBFC this season, I was gratified to take part in one of the Leave No Trace Hot Spots. Every year, the science and advocacy non-profit sponsors a team of traveling trainers to visit 20 “hot spots” across the country. These hot spots are places in our network of public lands that have seen a lot of visitation and a lot of human impacts, and which can greatly benefit from hands-on education, collaboration, and brainstorming. The LNT center works with partner groups, land managers, and volunteers to assess the human impacts to each hot spot, educate the public about LNT, brainstorm creative solutions for the increased impacts that these areas are sure to see, and lead a day of service at the sites themselves.

Of the hundreds of hot spots nominated for 2019, our own Route 12 corridor was chosen, specifically the very popular hot springs at Jerry Johnson, Weir Creek, and Stanley. The week began by hashing out the problems with the areas at Powell Ranger Station. The Leave no Trace Trainers Erin and Brice facilitated a meeting and brainstorming session with staff from Forest Service Recreation management, Forest Service Wilderness Rangers, a Watershed Restoration Ecologist who works for the Nez Perce Tribe, and representatives from SBFC. The following day, the conference room population tripled as folks from Forest Service and SBFC Trail Crews and Recreation Specialists joined in for an engaging and informative session of Leave No Trace programming. I’ve been in the world of conservation and natural resources for five years now, and I like to think I have a pretty good handle on LNT, but I learned quite a lot from this session. All the data and science that the Center uses to back up their recommendations I found particularly illuminating, and I know it will be a lot easier to educate the public with that science under my belt.

Over the weekend, we were lucky enough to be joined by students and staff from the University of Idaho in Moscow and Washington State University in Pullman, representing their Outdoor Programs. The students, Forest Service staff, and I participated in another round of programming detailing the seven principles of Leave No Trace (1. Plan Ahead and Prepare, 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces, 3. Dispose of Waste Properly, 4. Leave What You Find, 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts, 6. Respect Wildlife, and 7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors.) I was surprised to see that many of the students had never heard the phrase “leave no trace” before, but glad to see how engaged and eager they were to learn about it. It’s one thing to round out the education of a group of conservation workers who are already familiar with Leave No Trace, but another thing entirely to guide the next generation through responsible use of our public lands.

On Saturday, the Forest Service staff and the folks from the University of Idaho began the six mile hike into Stanley Hot Springs, where they would be working to alleviate the human impacts there, and I joined Erin, Brice, Courtney and Krissy from SBFC, and the students from the University of Washington to work at Weir Creek and Jerry Johnson Hot Springs. At these sites, we improved the trail so erosion would be lessened and sensitive vegetation saved, we decommissioned a number of social trails and campsites by naturalizing them and dismantling fire rings, buried a lot of human waste, and picked up dozens of pounds of trash. Most importantly, our staff and volunteers were on hand to talk to the public about these areas and about Leave No Trace on a very busy Saturday. I’m confident that many folks went home with a good deal more knowledge about responsible use of their public lands.

Everything I learned, taught, and participated in this week is a long way from “take only pictures, leave only footprints.” Everyone’s outdoor ethic is constantly evolving, as it should be, to keep up with new science and data, and new challenges that our public lands face from their 1.8 billion visits every year. I’m glad to be armed with even more knowledge about how to behave in the backcountry, and even more glad to have a new toolbox of skills and programming to pass this knowledge on to others.

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Being Grateful in the Wilderness

Joey Hudek

Moose Creek Trail Crew Leader

9/3-9/11

Nez Perce - Clearwater National Forest

Being Grateful in the Wilderness

As my third season with the SBFC comes to an end, I find myself reflecting on my trail work career. I’ve been tromping around the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness since 2012 and it really has imbedded itself in my heart and soul. The nine day chunks of time I get to spend out there have become an important part of who I am today. It seems like every hitch the wilderness teaches me an important lesson. This last hitch the lesson was gratitude. 

I left my crew to join the Forest Service in finishing the Bear Creek bridge. Instead of flying in with everyone else, I was able to use the packing skills I learned this year as I accompanied Pete the Packer to Shearer Guard Station by way of the Moose Creek Ranger Station. I was very grateful to get this opportunity to practice new skills, visit Moose Creek, and hang out with Pete. But I sure was sore after 40 miles in the saddle! We joined the bridge crew on day three and my focus shifted from horse packing to technical bridge construction. Our goal was to replace the top cap on the south end of the bridge. The other side had been done earlier in the summer by the same crew, so this one was set to be a piece of cake as everyone was already savvy on the process. Well, it didn’t go quite as everyone had planned. There were some setbacks and unexpected challenges that the entire crew had to overcome together. We all learned a lot. But, we did it, the Bear Creek Bridge is now officially open after a year and a half of being closed to stock!

So, the project was completed and we were waiting for our air transport out of Shearer. There was lots of time for contemplation (our plane came way later than we expected). I thought about all of my trail work mentors who helped me get to where I am today. Two of them happened to actually be out on the bridge project, and I was grateful to get to learn more from them. I thought about Penny Keck, the bridge builder. I’m grateful to be part of her bridge building legacy in the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness. I also thought about what an amazing life I have the privilege of living. In the summers, I spend more time in the woods than I do in town, which sometimes doesn’t feel like real life, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. I’m grateful to get to call the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness my home for five months every year, and even more grateful for all the lessons I have learned out there.

Thanks,

Joey

Packing with Pete

Packing with Pete

Removing the top cap

Removing the top cap

Completed North Side Top Cap

Completed North Side Top Cap