Fear and Loathing in the Selway

Caroline Newlin

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Big Sand Lake | Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest

July 3-10, 2024

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

Sometimes what you need is a little adventure in your life. The modern workplace is a boring drudgery filled with spreadsheets and carpal tunnel. This summer, I wanted to prolong my avoidance of my fate as a desk jockey, so I signed up for 14 weeks on a trail crew in the wilderness of Montana and Idaho. This hitch, I got some adventure.

Big Sand Lake. One of the most beautiful places I've camped. (photo by Sammy Phelps)

The biggest appeal to me about coming out west was how alien the plants and animals are compared to back home. A landscape dominated by snow capped mountains even in the middle of July is unheard of. The lack of harwoods is striking. This hitch, I was a part of the whisky crew working around Big Sand Lake. The scenery and plants present were stunning, and I saw species I hadn’t seen on any of my previous hitches. Dwarf lupine, Lupinus pusillus, for example, was magnificent to see. I’m used to the large lupine plants that are found all over the Selway and Frank Church Wilderness areas, but I’d never seen dwarf lupine before. You smelled it before you saw it. The shrub layer in the forests was thick and dominated by huckleberry. Here, creeks are abundant, clear as air, and ice cold. 

The canopy is dominated by lodgepole pine and firs. While working around the trail to Hidden Lake, the scenery changed. This section of the Selway-Bitterroot burned up in 2012, and you could see the remains of this fire everywhere you looked. The bleached skeletons of lodgepole pine lay stark against the sky like the ribs of some extinct animal. It’s a sharp contrast to the green, lush forest we’d seen previously.

A grouse with no sense of self-preservation (photo by Sammy Phelps)

Animals out in the Selway are pretty groovy. On our way to Big Sand Lake our first day, we ran into a mother grouse and her chicks. Grouse are about as smart as rocks. The chicks ran around where we had just walked, cheeping, with no care that we’re very large and have big feet. Mama grouse didn’t care either. She just sat there on a log staring at us and making grouse sounds. We could’ve grabbed her. Eventually, the grouse and her chicks mosied off. 

A mountain lion track. Out here, you aren't at the top of the food chain (photo by Sammy Phelps).

Not all the animals were as docile and potentially puntable as the grouse. Several members of the crew spotted cougar and wolf tracks. Knowing that you are no longer at the top of the food chain is humbling. It brings to mind Doug Peacock’s definition of wilderness: “a place, and only a place, where one enjoys the opportunity of being attacked by a dangerous wild animal.” When I’m at home, my flight or fight response is triggered by laundry. Out here, it feels good to be anxious about the same things Neanderthals had nervous breakdowns over. 

Unfortunately, I had to leave this hitch a few days early. I experienced a unique and devastating injury: spraining my ankle while hustling across camp to eat some corn dip. Jim, the camp cook, had made some corn dip that was so good you’d wreck your ankle. I need his recipe. It’s a truly embarrassing way to get injured. 

Due to the nature of my injury, getting off of the mountain was of utmost importance. The most effective way of doing so was on horseback. It’d been a few years since I’d last ridden a horse, so I was a bit stressed. Fortunately, John, our packer, put me on Kelly, a very relaxed and friendly mule. Riding down the mountain on the back of this mule in a chain brought to mind Forest Service workers 100 years ago doing the same sort of work we’re doing, with the same tools. It makes you feel like you’re part of something bigger than yourself. 

On the way down, John told me about whitebark pine, which is being devastated by white pine blister rust, an invasive fungus that uses members of the Ribes genus as a host. We saw one whitebark pine tree on the way, which is the first of its species I’ve ever seen. It was a young tree, less than 10 years from the look of it, and I imagine it’ll succumb to the fungus soon. Watching a species disappear from the landscape is a terrible feeling. 

One of John's horses (photo by Sammy Phelps).

John also told me about bear grass. I didn’t know this, but bear grass typically flowers once every seven years! The hillsides were a sea of them. I picked a good year to be out here. The excitement and unparalleled beauty made everything worth it.

This project was made possible with funds from the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forests, Idaho Fish & Game Access Funds, and private SBFC donors.

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CAROLINE NEWLIN

Snow Camp, NC

North Carolina State University- Forest Management

Caroline is passionate about the outdoors and has done outdoor work for years. In high school, she did trail work for her local park service and worked for a canoe and kayak company most summers. She has always wanted to visit Montana and Idaho, and this fellowship has given her that opportunity, while also learning about wilderness stewardship. She plans on hiking the whole Appalachian Trail one day, along with visiting all the national parks in the United States. Her hobbies include rock climbing, whitewater kayaking, backpacking, and gardening.

Hard(ly) Working

Colburn Reeves

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

S Fork Lolo Creek Trail- Volunteer Project

June 19-26, 2024

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

Wilderness Ranger Fellow, Jack, crossing the creek

The breath escaped from me the instant I hit the water; it was freezing. The creek beside camp had looked so alluring when I was carrying that pack, but I had no idea it'd be so cold. Shivering, I gathered myself and started to swim towards the grassy shore.

Once out, a feeling of euphoria washed over me, a sense that everything would be alright. Hitches always seem to have grueling work and serene moments that make it all worthwhile.

Accomplishments and Daily Life

The author at the Wilderness boundary

We spent the days clearing trails, ensuring that paths are accessible for future hikers. Our team of Wilderness Ranger Fellows and volunteers worked tirelessly, chopping through fallen trees, removing debris, and repairing damaged sections. It's tough work, but there's a unique satisfaction in seeing a trail open up and knowing that you've made it safer and more enjoyable for others.

Reflections and Inspiration

Being in the wilderness has been a transformative experience. The combination of hard work, stunning natural beauty, and the camaraderie of the team has been incredibly fulfilling. I encourage anyone who loves the outdoors to seek out experiences like these—there's nothing quite like it.

A curious mule sniffing my hand

This hitch was made possible with funds by: Montana Recreational Trails Program and the Bitterroot National Forest and the Great American Outdoors Act, and private SBFC donors.

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COLBURN REEVES

Decatur, AL

Auburn University- Natural Resource Management

Colburn was raised in North Alabama and enjoys days spent climbing, hiking, scuba diving, or even just hammocking. Anything to get him outside, as he feels most connected and at home when in nature. He is currently at Auburn University pursuing a degree in Natural Resource Management, and is excited to be spending his summer with SBFC to get hands-on experience in stewardship.

Frank's Life Lessons - A Halfway Point Reflection

Samuel Phelps

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Hitches 1-3, June 2024

Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

I have been lucky enough to be in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness for each hitch so far. Though the Frank, as we refer to it, has proven to be quite difficult, I have grown very fond of the area, especially the region in the Salmon-Challis National Forest. I have been thrown a handful of different challenges in the training hitch, as well as the in the two full hitches that I have been on. I am thankful for each of these challenges, and looking back on them at the halfway point in the season, I realize all that I have learned about myself.

An unsuccessful attempt to save the boots.

On the training hitch, which was my first multi-day backpacking/hiking trip ever, both of my boots blew out on the first day of working. I was so excited about working, being in a new and unfamiliar place, and in complete awe of beauty like I had never witnessed, that I did not realize I had a blowout in my right boot until the left one was half apart and I tripped on it. My Crocs were a lifesaver after having to double as my creek crossers and hiking boots. I continued the hitch, covering about 2-3 miles a day in the high desert climate and rock slides while working...in the Crocs. Here, I learned the importance of adaptability and doing the best I could with what I had available.

Ryan’s surprise visit. (Left to right: Caroline, Nate, Colby, Ryan, myself)

The next hitch was by far the toughest for me to date. I had a brand new pair of boots fresh from REI that had never seen dirt, a very heavy pack, and an excitement to get back to work in the wilderness. Those things were met with a 3.5 mile hike uphill, leading to a camp in a scorching hot burn area with no shade, and by the time Day 4 rolled around, I was greeted with a lovely two-mile hike to the work site that was 2000 feet lower in elevation than camp. And of course, back up that hill we went at the end of each work day. My home state of Louisiana is FLAT, and my body - being unconditioned to elevation changes - was exhausted. The physicality of long work hours in the sun, blisters, and sore muscles gave way to a mental battle only halfway through the trip. I toiled with a severe lack of motivation for a few days, until one morning I heard a voice in camp that was familiar, but wasn’t one of the crew. Our amazing Executive Director, Ryan, showed up unannounced at our camp at 7 am. Just seeing him and knowing the time and effort it took him to get to such a remote location so early was uplifting, as was the fact that he worked willingly alongside us, and...he brought snacks. This surprise visit gave us all a huge morale boost and helped us get through the remainder of the hitch. Here I learned a small lesson in mental toughness, how to push through hard things, and how much showing up for others can mean.

Nathan and I getting some affection from the packer’s dog, Shep. (I just got licked across the face)

Through facing these challenges and much adjustment to being out of my comfort zone, I have learned so many things, but the most important lesson I’ve learned is to reflect. The wilderness is a tough place, but it is also one of unsurpassed beauty, and it offers the ability to learn about one’s self while enjoying this beauty. I am grateful for this opportunity, the lessons I have learned thus far, and the personal growth, for the better, that I have had and will have this season.

To close with a quote, always remember: “Keep it wild, green, and clean while living in a wilderness dream.” - Bryan Parker, US Forest Service Wilderness Ranger, Salmon-Challis National Forest

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SAMUEL PHELPS

Franklinton, LA

University of Mobile- Marine Science

Samuel’s love for the outdoors started with hunting and fishing at a young age. As he got older, the labor side of preparing for upcoming seasons and occasional farm work fueled his passion and interest in conservation and land stewardship. Majoring in Marine Science and planning to continue his education in Forestry: Wildlife Habitat Management, Sammy desires to use his knowledge and experience to have a career conserving the beauty of nature. In his free time, Samuel enjoys hunting, fishing, and outdoor photography. He wants to use his time at SBFC to develop his outdoor skills and become a well-rounded advocate for the preservation of nature.

Rediscovering Old Roots, Planting New Ones

Marlena Nelson

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Youth Expedition: S Fork Big Creek

Bitterroot National Forest | Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

6/18-6/23/2024

After a steep final ascent and dam crossing, we are rewarded by a stunning panorama around Big Creek Lake, and a still muddy trail

When Ian Harris, our youth program director, reached out to me about helping him lead SBFC’s first ever Youth Expedition, the first thought that crossed my mind was: Only six days? Heck yeah, I’m down! The more and more I thought about it, my true excitement lay in the prospect of creating a life-changing experience for our participants.

I got my true start in the outdoors as a guide in college, working and playing in the rivers, springs and mountains (some may call them hills) of the southeast. The most satisfying part of the job, beyond all the time in nature, was watching my participants fall in love with and become confident outside.

Rob demonstrates a popular free-time activity for our group - fishing in Big Creek Lake!

During our six-day expedition, I got to know four spunky and stoked youths from Montana and Idaho. Veva and Allegra amused me with their fast friendship, youthful jargon, and interest in identifying plants. Rob demonstrated a commitment to fishing (in this case commitment looked like waking up two hours before wake-up time to start casting) that astounded me. Liam inspired me with his tenacity and grit, and an impressive knowledge of movies, music, and vintage cars. Despite the challenges of mis-fitting packs, a cold and wet first night, over-enthusiastic mosquitos, and plenty of flooded trails, our crew was ready to learn and play each and every day.

Here are some of our stats:

Saskatoon, one of the many native plants Veva, Allegra, and I sought to identify around the lake.

• Number of Fish Caught = 10

• Plants Identified

  • Saskatoon (Briefly mistaken for Mallow Ninebark)

  • Trillium

  • Alpine Forget-Me-Not

  • Lupine

  • Larkspur

• Creek Crossings = 5 (each multiple times)

• Memories made = too many to count!

To be able to plant seeds of love of and stewardship for wilderness is a great honor. At the very same time, every moment of teaching brought me back to when I was a beginner, too. Watching our crew of four experience the euphoria of cutting their first tree, or struggle with their first attempts at bowline knot, or tackle camp chores felt like watching my first steps down the path that brought me here.

I am so excited for Rob, Veva, Liam, Allegra, and all of our youth participants to come to take their experiences to shape their futures and that of our wild, beautiful lands. Perhaps one day, they will find themselves in my boots.

Starting a cut with Allegra, one of our youth participants

Before and after of a fun tree problem: A great opportunity to practice limb-ing and cutting!

The SBFC Youth Wilderness Expedition Program is funded in part by:

The 2024 National Forest System (NFS) Trail Stewardship Partners Funding, Bass Pro Shops and Cabela’s Outdoor Fund Grant, the Lamb Foundation, Ravalli Electric Co-Op, Missoula Electric Cooperative, Blackfoot Communications, and private donors.

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MARLENA NELSON

Saxony, Germany

University of Florida- Food & Resource Economics

Marlena grew up connecting with the outdoors of New England, Germany, and Florida. Working as an outdoor guide during her bachelor's degree opened her eyes to the power of nature to shape individuals and communities. Three months of conservation work in Utah and Arizona inspired her to seek further opportunities to practice stewardship of wild landscapes. She is passionate about creating a world in which people and the planet can thrive.

Scouting to Fur Farm- Developments in Wilderness

Nate Thompson

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

SBFC Training Hitch- Little Loon Creek Trail

May 27-June 1, 2024

Salmon-Challis National Forest | Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

After two weeks of training in the frontcountry, the 2024 class of Wilderness Ranger Fellows was released into the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness to begin applying the skills that they had begun to develop. For this initial six day hitch of working and training, the group was split into two crews. My crew, consisting of six Fellows and three crew leaders, was flown in on bush planes to the Cougar Ranch Airstrip within the Frank Church Wilderness. Our objective was to clear an eight mile section of the Little Loon Creek Trail from the Salmon River to a historic homestead called Fur Farm. This trail hadn’t been fully cleared since the early 2000s, so we knew that there would be a significant amount of work to do. On day two of our hitch, I volunteered to join one of the leaders and another fellow on a scouting trip up to the end of the trail to gauge the level of work that the trail would require and mark any major obstacles. I knew that this would be a long hike of over seven miles each direction. I was excited to explore the area and contribute to our crew’s knowledge.

We ventured off upstream along the creek, crossing the freezing water three times early on in the day. The trail was in better condition than we expected, but there were sections of bushes along the creekside that were heavily overgrown into the trail. The scenery was gorgeous, as the creek flowed through a deep rocky valley. Around three miles into the trail, we found multiple impressive beaver dams and signs of wolf and mountain lion activity. As we progressed, we found a few small to medium-sized logs to cut and clear from the trail. After a few sections of rocky off-trail traversing and route finding, we spotted the homestead that we knew to be Fur Farm at 1:30 in the afternoon.

There are two buildings at the site, one dilapidated log cabin built by the original homesteader, Dutch Charlie, along with an impressively maintained two story cabin built from lumber. We were shocked to find the door to the intact building unlocked and sat down to enjoy our lunch at a plywood dining table. Sitting at a table for lunch is a rare treat in the backcountry, especially in a two-story building! The cabin had a small amount of unguarded supplies, including coffee, hand tools, and folding chairs. The sign on the door told us that it was managed by the Idaho Department of Fish and Game.

This homestead sits on a truly remote plot in central Idaho. It is an imposing thought that Dutch Charlie decided to begin homesteading in such a place, but the beautiful surroundings helped to explain his motivations. Typically, we think of designated Wilderness areas as undeveloped and untrammeled lands. However, the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness houses a multitude of structures and evidence of human activity that existed within the area for generations before its designation. In the past, the Nez Perce and Shoshone tribes inhabited the area. Tragically, these tribes were driven out by miners in the late-1800s when gold was discovered and economic incentives increased the pressure on the land. The Frank is the second largest Wilderness area in the lower 48, with over two million acres of wild land. That massive plot contains a number of airstrips, historic homesteads and ranches, mines, and even fully functional backcountry lodges. In my view, these developments do not detract from the character of the landscape, they support it. They are historic and cultural artifacts that contribute to the Frank’s uniqueness and remind us of the humans who have experienced the brutal Wilderness before us. My visit to Fur Farm emphasized the importance of our efforts to protect this Wilderness and continue the string of cultural heritage into the future.

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NATE THOMPSON

Denver, CO

Colorado Mountain College- Sustainability Studies

Nate grew up camping and exploring the Mountain West with his family. He attended Colorado Mountain College, where he completed programs in Outdoor Education and Sustainability Studies. He feels deeply drawn to Wilderness, where he can challenge himself and find purpose. Nate loves to ski all winter and spends his summers biking and backpacking. Along with his passion for outdoor adventures, he enjoys discovering music, reading, and watching hockey.

Walking TACOs

Emma Stattelman

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Roan Ridge TMO (Trail Management Objective)

06/05/2024 -  06/12/2024

Salmon-Challis National Forest | Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

Spot the trail! Spot the hiker!

Along the trail!

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EMMA STATTLEMAN

Duluth, MN

Bates College- Biology & Environmental Studies

Emma is currently a senior at Bates College majoring in Biology and Environmental Studies. She grew up in Duluth, Minnesota. Emma was inspired to apply for this position after spending last summer as part of a snorkel crew based out of McCall, Idaho. Emma enjoys running, hiking, and nordic-skiing and is looking forward to learning more about backpacking and wilderness stewardship this summer.

Spring Training

Bailey Underwood

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Salmon-Challis National Forest / Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

Little Loon Creek Trail

May 27th, 2024 – June 1st, 2024

 My position as a SBFC Wilderness Ranger Fellow has only just begun. A month ago, I was working in a biology lab in a basement with a happylite nearby. Now I am flying into the wilderness on a bush plane, crossing creeks in my sandals, and falling asleep in my tent by 9pm.

Officially took off from Challis airstrip and heading out on hitch. Nervous and laughing a lot. Trying to figure out how to co-pilot in minutes, just in case.

We flew from Challis, Idaho into the Cougar Creek Ranch Airstrip. The Cougar Creek Ranch was built in 1905 and grandfathered into the wilderness area. The ride was smooth thanks to the clear weather, but a bush plane landing has its limits and it was a bumpy one.  Our training hitch took place in the Salmon-Challis National Forest. Our work took place on the Little Loon Creek trail. We cleared the trail of fallen trees, brushed away the overgrowth and crossed creeks at least 40 times to do so. I could definitely feel the “training” part of this hitch. My backpack was heavy, overflowing, and my hips ached within a mile. I nearly fell asleep in my tent with half a snickers bar in my pocket. I brought enough salt for a month and not nearly enough coffee.

Little Loon Creek Trail, creek down to the right beneath the alder trees.

In the high desert ecosystem, I saw wild rose, wild strawberry, western larkspur, sage brush, alder tree, chipmunk, rattlesnake, deer mouse, and large cat signs. The sun was hot on the exposed scree fields, but the shade was cool beneath the alders by the creek. I had no expectations for what my summer would look like. But I am here now, and I look forward to what is to come.

Front door of the Cougar Creek Ranch single room cabin.

Flying home at the end of hitch looking over the Salmon River through the bush plane back window.

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BAILEY UNDERWOOD

Missoula, MT

University of Montana- Wildlife Biology

Bailey grew up a military brat and moved around a lot. Despite frequent change in her childhood, her love and appreciation for nature was a constant. Bailey’s education and work experience in wildlife conservation has taught her the importance of balance within nature. Bailey looks forward to exploring the wilderness areas near her new home base through the SBFC Wilderness Ranger Fellowship program. Although new to trail work, she is excited to learn about responsible stewardship of wild places. She believes that respect towards the land is respect to all who inhabit it.

Sky N' Trees

Tom Urmston

Wilderness Ranger Fellow

Salmon-Challis National Forest | Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

May 27 - June 1, 2024             

The view from above. Enroute to Cougar Airstrip.

I could feel my nervous energy increasing with each mile we drove closer to Challis, Idaho. This small town in Custer County with a population of approximately 958 people would be the beginning of the training hitch journey of the SBFC “Sky N’ Trees” team. On May 27th, our team departed Missoula around 5:30 a.m. and arrived at Challis Airport around 10:00 a.m. Myself and five other fellows (Nate T, Sammy P, Bailey, Rowan, and Emma), as well as our three crew leads (Phoebe, Wyatt, and Robbie), would be taking bush planes to Cougar Airstrip, a remote airstrip located alongside the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness Area.

I’ll admit that I’m an anxious flier and was a wee bit nervous about flying in a small 4-seater bush plane that would be weaving in and around mountains. However, I knew I had to psych myself up and look ahead to the unforgettable experience I would be partaking in. It didn’t take long once we packed up our tools and gear into the planes before we were inbound for Cougar Airstrip. The flight over was absolutely breathtaking. You look out the window and see a landscape that has probably been relatively unchanged for millions of years. I got to share this incredible experience with Robbie and Emma, alongside our pilot Adam.

Our one and only use of the crosscut saw during the training hitch. Pictured is Emma and Sammy

Once everybody had safely landed and all our gear and tools were accounted for, our team of nine strong hiked roughly 1.5 miles southwest of the airstrip to a nice campground that overlooked the Salmon River. This would be our base camp for the next 5 days. Our goal with this hitch was to clear Little Loon Trail, a trail that hadn’t been cleared since 2003! To our surprise, we only needed to use our crosscut saw(s) once when we had to remove a large log a very short distance from camp. The rest of our time was allocated to brushing and removing any vegetation impeding the use of the trail. Katana boys, big boys, pocket boys, and loppers were the four tools that assisted us with this endeavor. Our “Sky N’ Trees” team covered around 4 miles of brushing over our 5-day stay in the Frank!

Rowan crossing the Little Loon creek on our way to another day of brushing.

The cold creek crossings at 7:30 a.m. or the steep, rocky terrain were no match for the dedication this crew had to accomplishing our goal. On June 1st, around 8 a.m., we departed Cougar Airstrip and made the return trip to Challis. As I looked out the window onto the landscape below, I couldn’t stop thinking about how our teamwork and cooperation with each other during that hitch will go a long way in ensuring a successful and prosperous season here at SBFC. With that being said, I say cheers to the beginning of the 2024 season! 

Cougar Ranch Cabin. A small cabin a short distance from Cougar Airstrip.

Sammy’s boot mishap. The sole came off on day 2 of the hitch.

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TOM URMSTON

Annandale, NJ

University of New Hampshire- Wildlife & Conservation Biology

Tom has always had an interest in the outdoors, specifically wildlife. During the summer of 2023, Tom was a Trail Ambassador for the Hunterdon County Parks Department, where he worked with fellow Trail Ambassadors to accomplish trail maintenance, outdoor concert preparation, and instructing clients on proper canoe and kayak techniques. Tom is thrilled to spend his summer as a 2024 SBFC Wilderness Ranger Fellow.

Laughing River

Ted McManus | SBFC Board Member

SBFC Volunteer Trail Project on the Salmon River, Idaho

May 1-7, 2024

I woke each morning to the sound of laughter. What a wonderful way to start each day - the sounds of laughter and bird song and a rushing river, the sight of mist rising up the canyon walls to reveal fresh snow 1000 feet above us, and hot coffee, of course. The three late 20’s SBFC staff and one Forest Service trail expert, who were our leaders at Yellow Pine Bar for the week on the Salmon River, woke before we late-middle aged volunteers did. As they prepared coffee and breakfast and laid out lunch food for us to pack, they talked and joked and, especially, laughed.

We arrived at Yellow Pine Bar Campsite on May 1st after a 90-minute jet boat ride up the Salmon River from Riggins, Idaho. The boat crunched into the rocks along the shore of the river as it pulled close enough to the shore for us to disembark. Under the leadership of our SBFC crew, we quickly formed a fire line to unload our prodigious pile of gear onto the beach, scrambling for jackets and shielding our faces from the pelting snow/sleet/hail. Situations like this bring a group of strangers together in a hurry. We had no choice but to work together. Our tarp shelter and tents went up without a hitch. Within a few short hours, we had bonded as a group, aided by the crew’s light-hearted leadership.

Our fearless leaders taking a moment to refuel

Our leaders were the new field staff for SBFC, the confident, experienced trail professionals who will lead the Wilderness Ranger Fellows in the summer of 2024 as they clear and improve hundreds of miles of trail in the two wilderness areas. The five of them - Robbie, Wyatt, Phoebe, Joe, and Emily - come from a variety of backgrounds and areas of the country, but they seem already in sync with one another, as if they had spent years working together - which Phoebe and Emily did in the Bob Marshall. These people work hard and laugh harder, completely comfortable in the wilderness. It’s a beautiful sight to see.

Working on some big rocks!

That type of leadership was so important, because the work we faced was not tossing rocks and sticks off the trail. It was hard work, building rock walls from 50-100 pound rocks to keep the trail from sliding into the Salmon River hundreds of feet below, and widening the tread of the trail by cutting into the hillside with nine-pound hammers/pick axes and smoothing everything out with the McCloud tool. We were clearing and improving the very heart of the Idaho Centennial Trail - the section where hikers drop down from Chamberlain Basin in the Frank Church Wilderness, walk along the fabled Salmon River, and then hike up and out on the Bargamin Creek Trail toward the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. So, as representatives of SBFC, this section of trail is particularly exciting because it’s, in a way, the heart of it all.

The gardens at Yellow Pine Bar (Photo by Stefan Turneaure)

Each day’s hike to our work site took us along Yellow Pine Bar, where an old backcountry ranch is cared for by two of the friendliest people you’ll ever encounter - caretakers Greg and Sue, whose Minnesota-nice personalities in the middle of the Frank Church Wilderness are like a sun-dappled forest after a rainstorm. We were the first people other than the mail plane pilot to stumble into their homestead in many months. We were treated to lemonade and a tour of their blacksmith shop and greenhouse/garden. The pride they have for their work there is palpable. Greg crafts beautiful knives of Damascus steel in the 100+ year old blacksmith shop, and Sue grows 75% of the food they eat each year. They were drying gallons of morel mushrooms to last them until next year’s crop pops up. This is their 17th year at Yellow Pine Bar and their 36th year in the Frank. What a wealth of knowledge!

The thoughts of comfortable beds, running water, and loved ones pushed us to pack up on the morning of May 7th. However, as the jet boat muscled its way back down the river to the Vinegar Creek boat ramp, we looked back at the wilderness with longing and a desire to go explore more and more of those trails in the Frank and the Selway-Bitterroot. Soon enough!

Up the River

Shawn Donley | SBFC Board Member

Salmon River Trail #96

Volunteer Project- May 1-7, 2024

Traveling by jetboat up the Salmon River

The further we traveled up the Salmon River, the more apprehensive I felt. This was my first multi-day trail work project and the reality of it was starting to set in. I’ve never done a full week of manual labor and I wasn’t sure how my body would hold up. Most of my working career had been spent in front of a computer dealing with a daily barrage of emails. This week would be a totally different experience. 

Volunteer Beth: “I like big rocks and I cannot lie!”

By the time we arrived at our destination, Bargamin Creek, we had traveled 40 miles upriver and were nearly 70 miles from the closest town. I felt lucky to be in this beautiful, remote location with such a great group of folks. The three other volunteers in my crew all had a fair amount of experience. Beth is a founding member of the Salamander Trail Crew in Oregon. Her level of commitment to trail work is exemplified by a tattoo of a crosscut saw on her bicep. 

John from Boise is the owner of Trailhead DesignWorks, which makes reproductions of Forest Service and Wilderness Area signs. His signs of the Selway and the Frank are available on the SBFC site. Karen from Garden Valley is a veteran of several volunteer trips, including the annual maintenance of the St. Mary Peak trail in the Bitterroot Valley. 

After unloading all our gear from the boat we set up camp along the Wild & Scenic Salmon River in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. The goal was to spend the week improving the Salmon River Trail #96, which was severely damaged by the 2023 Elkhorn Fire.

Wyatt and Emily cooking up another delicious breakfast.

Our days started at 7am with a big pot of coffee and a hearty breakfast prepared by Wyatt and Emily, our SBFC Trail Crew leaders. Wyatt used to work as an outfitter in the Bob Marshall Wilderness and served up some tasty breakfast sandwiches, french toast, and chocolate chip pancakes. 

After packing our lunches and washing the dishes, we’d all do a yoga session led by Silas. He’s a Forest Service worker based out of Missoula and joined our crew to learn more about technical trail building. It was nice to start the day with some stretching, getting those tight muscles loosened up before a long day of trail work. The leader of our crew, Noel, works out of a local Forest Service Ranger Station and has overseen these trails for more than 14 years. He is also a rockwork guru. In a previous life I’d swear that he was the project manager for an epic site like Machu Picchu or Angkor Wat.

Wyatt, Noel and Karen at work building a retaining wall.

The whole week was spent working on a one mile section of trail. In a Wilderness area with thousands of miles of trail, I was surprised to learn that we would be focusing on such a small section, but Wilderness rockwork is labor intensive and the structures we were building are meant to last for decades. 

Moving large rocks over uneven terrain is a challenge, so we set up a skyline, which is kind of like a zipline for rocks. Once a good building rock was found, it would be carried in a sling, attached to the skyline, raised by a hand winch and then jettisoned to the building site. It was a super cool process and an efficient way to move a lot of rocks a long distance.

The two crews meetup midway between our camps.

After four days our retaining wall was nearly complete. To get a break from the heavy lifting Beth, Karen, John and I spent the first half of Day 5 brushing and scouting the trail downriver from our camp. We had been working in a relatively small section, so it was nice to finally see more of this incredible area. We hiked past Allison Ranch, much of which had been destroyed in the fire the previous year. The trail continued west, staying high above the Salmon River. We were just about to turn around when we saw the familiar yellow SBFC hard hats in the distance. It was fun to connect with the other crew and compare notes. We were jealous when we heard that they were given lemonade and rhubarb (which they baked into a crumble) from the Yellow Pine Ranch.

The weather the whole week was very agreeable, not too hot or too cold and the rain we did get mostly occurred at night while we were sleeping. Every evening after dinner we would sit around a campfire and share stories. Some of my favorites involved ghosts, aliens and questionable Bigfoot encounters. The last day I spent with Silas and Beth brushing the adjacent Bargamin Creek trail and removing large rocks and downed trees. It was very satisfying to see the fruits of our labor while hiking back to camp on a clear trail at the end of the day.

When the boat came to pick us up on the last day I was both excited and a little sad to leave this beautiful place. Any anxiousness I had felt before the trip had completely dissipated. I realized that no matter how tired I was at the end of the day, a warm hearty meal and a good night’s sleep was all I needed to feel completely rejuvenated. It was very rewarding being part of this team and seeing all that we accomplished over the course of a week. If a multi-day trail work project is something you’ve ever thought of doing or have always wanted to do, I couldn’t recommend this special experience highly enough.

Lots of smiles at the end of a productive week in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness.

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Shawn Donley

Board Member

Stevensville, MT

Shawn is originally from Pittsburgh, but has lived in Oregon, Washington and Montana since 1991. He recently retired from the book publishing industry, where he served on the board of the Pacific Northwest Booksellers Association. He has also been a member of the Mazamas, the Forest Park Conservancy, the Pacific Crest Trail Association, the Rocky Mountaineers and Run Wild Missoula. Shawn is an avid trail runner, mountain climber, backpacker, and has lived, worked and traveled in more than 60 countries. After having spent most of his adult life enjoying wilderness areas across the Western United States, he feels lucky to now have the time and energy to help maintain and protect the wild places that have given him so much pleasure. Shawn and his wife Susan live outside of Stevensville with a beautiful view of the Northern Bitterroot Range.